The rising sun creeps into the sky and the first golden rays hit the tops of limestone outcrops that line the Gorge de l'Ardeche. In the summer this place is mobbed out with canoes, but on this morning I quite literally had the place to myself. I arrived in the dark, and watched as the sun rose and lit up the Pont d'Arc and the neighbouring tower, and the sky turned the outrageously deep blue you see in these parts. It was good for the soul!