Mitchell County

I'm about an inch shorter than I was last Wednesday. I hiked my legs to nubs over the last few days in an attempt to put everything beautiful around Roan Highlands before the lens... and loved every minute of it! The problem was that everything was beautiful, but that's a nice problem to have. It's easy to understand why so many photographers make this pilgrimage each year for the peak of the rhododendron season.

There's nothing quite like the splendor anywhere along the trail from Carver's Gap to Grassy Ridge... but it's not just about the view. The terrain can be challenging at times, which gives you a sense of accomplishment. There's also a combination of flora enough to keep a botanist busy for a lifetime... Roan’s ecosystem, comprised of 27 rare natural communities, nearly 800 plant species, 6 federally listed species (spreading avens, Roan Mountain bluet, Blue Ridge goldenrod, rock gnome lichen, Carolina northern flying squirrel and spruce fir moss spider), and over 80 southern Appalachian endemic or regionally rare species, is one of the richest repositories of temperate zone biodiversity on earth. And then, there's the folks you meet along the trail.

It's a pleasure being around those who are seeing this place for the first time... I'm excited for the joy and wonder that they experience here... there's a beauty in that, too. I met some older women, some likely in their late 70s, who had managed quite well the hike onto Grassy Ridge Bald last Saturday morning. They stopped along the trail to inquire about a plant... they were excited that it turned out to be a rare Gray's lily that had yet to bloom (see one here from friend Keith Clontz that looks suspiciously like the 3-bud flower we saw, taken the same day www.flickr.com/photos/55226137@N05/7358413098/in/photostream). They didn't seem concerned for what others thought, or what others were doing... with hand-hewn walking sticks in hand, they had managed the somewhat arduous trek up, joyful just to be there and living life, not as "old women", but as people with a dignified spirit... beautiful! "Paradoxically, striving for possessions and money, the things we think will bring us pleasure and happiness, actually strips the meaning from our lives....What we truly long for isn't boundless riches. What we desire is a sense of significance and value - of human dignity." - Chuck Colson

Here, the clouds contend with the magnificence of the Catawba rhododendron as a low sun punctuates the end of the day last Thursday evening on Jane Bald... but some beauty in this world is just way too big for the camera.

By the way, I made a new friend at Roan... she's new to Flickr. Drop by here www.flickr.com/photos/49592464@N03/ and give Sheila a big welcome... and see some more images from the highlands!

This is the 'go-to' destination for many photographers in the Roan Highlands, Grassy Ridge. It's a stout 3-mile hike with a lot of 'up' involved. I started the trail at just a little before 4:00 am. I had to "push it up", as former fighter pilot friend Rob Waldo Waldman is fond of expressing, so I could be here before sunrise. A 3-mile hike in the flatlands is one thing; here, about a mile up, and carrying about 40 pounds of gear on steeply rising terrain, this hike takes about two hours. I had to hurry to catch that sunrise, so I hoofed it nonstop from Carver's Gap all the way to this spot in under two hours... if only the sun would cooperate.

Prior to this image, the area was socked with clouds... shortly after this shot, they returned for the duration of my time there, along with a howling wind... and cold. I had an excellent raincoat/windbreaker on to retain some heat, as usually this time of year, it can start off cold here, then warm up exponentially as the sun rises... not on this day, however. After about an hour of it, having worked my way over to the peak of the ridge, that wind had hauled off with a good bit of my body heat... my teeth were chattering uncontrollably! Having worked the area as best I could with the camera, I reluctantly had to seek some warmer climes back down the trail. Certainly, sunset back on Jane Bald would make up for what I missed here.

Did I say "certainly"? Later that evening, all clouds gave way to clear blue skies, not exactly what I expected, but just as I've experienced here so many times in these mountains. Don't feel sorry for me though, as that provides so many reasons to come back. I'm back there in the area from tomorrow until Tuesday evening. Who's with me?

Of particular note on the hike back down, by the way, I ran across two kids, apparently brother and sister jabbering away with each other, near the high point of Grassy Knob, who were wearing short-sleeved shirts, no shoes, and were wet as I had been having been in contact with the wet foliage along the trail... and absolutely oblivious to the cold! Their parents, appearing every bit as old hippies, followed about two minutes behind them, dressed nearly the same, though wearing sandals... that's better than barefoot, though totally inappropriate for the steep rocky tails here. I found out later (as they had aroused the curiosity of many from these parts) that they were from Michigan. Apparently, they drink antifreeze up there.

Having posted the cloudy version of Grassy Ridge two posts back (titled "Rhododendron Hells"), it occurred to me I had never posted this image from 5 years ago. The original is a composite image of 9 vertical shots that is 72”x24”, though with detail that could make it larger if necessary… I’ve pared it down using the same aspect ratio to 60”x20” that drops the printing costs of an exhibition metal float print somewhat exponentially.

Grassy Ridge Bald is the longest stretch of grassy bald in the Roan Highlands area of the Appalachian Mountains. You will never see this roadside… seeing it requires a hike starting from Carver’s Gap, located on State Route TN-143 and NC-261, which connects the towns of Roan Mountain, Tennessee, and Bakersville, North Carolina... you park on the state line! The Appalachian Trail winds its way through Roan Mountain State Park… it is along this trail that you begin to work your way up until it intersects a spur trail at the boundary of Grassy Ridge Bald nearly 2 miles from Carver’s Gap

Roan Mountain has five sub-peaks that comprise the Highlands and is divided into two sections by Carvers Gap. To the west of Carvers Gap are Roan High Bluff and Roan High Knob that are easily accessed by road as well as trail… the world-famous Roan Rhododendron Gardens that are handicap-accessible. That’s a wonderful option for those who have a hard time getting around… but it’s hard to beat the view from Grassy Ridge. East of Carvers Gap, accessible only by hiking, is the area of Roan Mountain known as Grassy Ridge, which includes three peaks: Round Bald, Jane Bald, and Grassy Ridge Bald. At an elevation of 6,189 feet (1886 meters), Grassy Ridge Bald is one of the highest grassy balds in the Appalachian Mountains.

There’s a lot to see on the trail to this point and you get many different perspectives along the way… the hike takes a little over 5 miles straight up and back, with a total elevation gain of 1,150 feet (350 meters). My hikes there are never less than 8 miles round trip and often more as I move around for those perspectives to put in front of the lens… but this place is the jewel at the end of the trail. To get this image required scrambling up the huge rock you see in the foreground to get above it all. While this would make a wonderful print, I've not caught the quintessential shot I've had in mind of this place just yet... it's been too windy, or too cloudy/foggy, or the light's just not right, or I'm too early or too late for peak conditions... or worse, any combination of these conditions. I guess I'm just going to have to keep making my way up there until I get it. I'm just kidding myself... even if I did get what I think I want, I still would never be satisfied. Would you?

This is a repost. Likely thanks to the Flickr app's not-so-well placed delete button, it was apparently "butt-dialed" out of existence... I need to speak to the powers that be about that.

This is Round Bald, of the Roan Highlands, from a couple of years back. This is always a favorite destination in spring with Gray's lily, Catawba rhododendron, and flame azalea lighting up the bald, but what does autumn offer? I've had other photographers to tell me "Not much." Apparently, blueberries on fire framing the surrounding mountains dressed in autumn's finest isn't worth their effort. I beg to differ, but you be the judge.

I generally spend a week in the Grandfather Mountain region in the fall. That gives access to many places that shine in that season, like Rough Ridge, Linville Gorge, and Boone Fork, of which most favor morning light. Round Bald, especially with consideration of the mountain layers beyond it, favors evening light, so it's always a part of my photography agenda.

I approach photography with a sense of wonder. Even familiar subjects like Round Bald are always fascinating with the changing seasons and light. For all that, I still have room to learn. My wife and I work closely with many foreign students at Duke University through International Students, Inc. On a recent trip to the bald, married friends from China made observations that were not lost on me.

Both Jesse and Sophia (their Anglicized names) were transfixed with the clouds rolling across the bald. Jesse made two observations, the first being that it reminded him of Chinese mythology of immortals breathing mist. Mythology stemmed from people trying to make sense of their surroundings in a time before science. Both of my friends are Christians and well-versed in science, but for them, the highlands were otherworldly... even in my familiarity with the place, I could well understand their fascination.

While shooting his own photos of the mountains disappearing into the mist, Jesse just lowered the camera and looked around as he stated that he had "never heard such quiet." Earlier in the day at a mountain stream, Sophia noted that she felt as though her nose had just taken a shower. I love that description! The conditions of Beijing made our mountains stand out to these sweet visitors, and though I've not (yet) been to Beijing, they made them stand out to me, too.

We have friends coming from England in September. I drove 700 miles through England last year during a bank holiday. That made me realize something: England comprises roughly 4/5s of the total area of North Carolina, yet with a population of 50+ million people, England has 10-times the population of North Carolina... and I believe they were all on the road while I was there last year. We're picking our friends up in Charlotte and staying together in a wonderful cabin near Newland. I can't wait for their impressions up here at Roan Highlands... the blueberries should just be turning.

As I stated in the previous image, the Blue Ridge is covered in rhododendron… I wasn’t kidding! These are the showy magenta/pink Catawba that bloom from late May to early June, depending on the altitude of where they are located. Here along Grassy Ridge, they’re at nearly 6,000 feet (1,828.8 meters). That’s not fog up the ridge but rather clouds skirting the heights. It adds a sense of mystery to me, even though I'm very familiar with this place. The trail to this point leads through tunnels of interwoven branches of rhododendron, and it’s tight in a few places, especially if you’re carrying gear. The early colonial pioneers who first navigated these mountains referred to such thickets as “rhododendron hells” as it was easy to get lost among them. I wouldn’t suggest such a hike… but it’s amazing to see from above. Between the rhododendron are fir, mountain ash, and wild hydrangea for the most part. A note here to my UK-Irish friends... mountain ash here are what you refer to as Rowan trees. I've seen them growing at sea-level as I drove through Northern Ireland. Most of North Carolina's climate is of the humid subtropical variety, with the high Appalachians being the exception. We can use mountain ash as an altimeter here, as they're only found in elevations above 5,000 feet. The highest mountain east of the Mississippi River is Mount Mitchell at 6,680 feet here in North Carolina... which means the mountain ash will only be found on the highest ridges here, such as the one in this image.